 ALTEWAISAOME |  MINNA PALMQVIST |  BACK |
|---|---|---|
 IDA SJÖSTEDT |  CARIN WESTER |  CHEAP MONDAY |
 DIANA ORVING |  ARMY OF ME |  WHYRED |
REVIEW:
STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK S/S15
31.08.14
TEXT: CARL GUSTAF VON PLATEN
PHOTOS: SAGA WEST,CGVP & SOURCE UNKNOWN
IDA SJÖSTEDT
As usual Ida Sjöstedt introduced a very feminine collection. I don't agree with verbal connection to gender within the term "feminine" but I think it's a perfect word especially for this collection, because of the subtle feminism. The girls strutting down the catwalk were not your normal dainty, soft Sjöstedt girls. They were powerful Paris Hilton figures, geared with pigtails and chunky, strappy, rhinestone-d shoes. My notes for the collection were "snobby sweet sixteen blonde Barbie bitch" which I have great pride in since I believe that it describes the collection perfectly.
The show was set to a mix of all the big hits this year such as Lana del Rey's "Summertime sadness" and Britney's "Work". I suspect that Sjöstedt almost did this ironically to set the tone of her enthralling take on Swedish snobby girls. The mix of songs started quickening in the beat ― perhaps reflecting the always unstable timeline of teenage years.
What I think that Sjöstedt is doing this year was not only making her target group younger, but more powerful, fast walks and short dresses provided a "iced soy latte with one ice cube" look. I almost felt intimidated by the statuesque models that stomped forcibly in short Barbie pink trenches and flared holographically foiled jersey trousers. I enjoyed Sjöstedts take on sweet sixteens as it was definitely was a swing in a different direction.
CHEAP MONDAY
Forcing the fashion folk to cover their Valentino stilettos with aquamarine plastsic bags, Cheap Monday chose to have their show at a swimming pool ( exciting , although not the first to do thisrecently *hint hint* Jacquemus ).
Welcomed by humidity and a swimming pool adorned with inflatable dolphins the collection was as usual made for youth. Playfully punk-y garments matched with 70s platforms made for a fresh spring summer aesthetic for next year.
Gradually, all the models walked to the deep end of the pool, stripping themeselves of shoes and hats. At the very end, instead of darkness and a wave from the designers, we were granted a grande finale. All the models jumped into the pool, some running around the pool, a place where one is not allowed to run - perhaps reflecting the playful punk kid.
ALTEWAISAOME
I thoroughly enjoyed AltewaiSamoe’s S/S15. The range of textures and details moved throughout the collection, but the silhouette retained the same basic shape. The silhouette felt comforting ― shrouding the body in a cocoon type way. Movement was given in each look, by incorporating many hanging bands. I enjoyed the stable sophistication throughout the collection. In summary AltewaiSaome S/S15 pleased me with subtle modernity and a relaxed silhouette.
BACK
I have so much to say about BACK’s S/S15 collection. It felt personal and emotional ― perhaps communicated by exposed shoulders and frayed denim. And when I say frayed denim, I mean frayed. Not Marques’ Almeida-esque fraying but “a pack of rottweilers tried to eat me” kind of fraying.
Moving away from her usual cold and “chin-up” girl, BACK’s models walked calmly in “Ljusgården” at the luxurious galleria Nordiska Kompaniet. The models walked to acoustic songs, not caked in makeup or heavy overdone hair. The whole collection felt undressed - as if Back had peeled away a cold exterior to find a more sculptural and cut down approach to her normally humorous garb. The collection was free from slogans such as “BACK FOR GOOD” or “WE LOVE YOU BACK” which have popped up in her latest collections. I imagine that this contributes to the idea that Back decided to step away from her conventional thick skinned aesthetic.
MINNA PALMQVIST
As usual Minna Palmqvist chose to present her clothes in a more organic way ― truly reflecting her belief of her clothes being “the extended body”. Models of all shapes and sized strutted down the catwalk decorated with flowers and unfinished hems. The colour pallette held itself to nudes, whites and a particularly sherbet-toned pink. The models had visible hair extensions and some were clad in a silk with print ― arrows that seemed to follow each ridge on the models’ bodies, truly reflecting a down to earth aesthetic.
The models all donated an exterior piece of clothing into a plexiglass box, and swapped it for a new. Transforming through time this collection spoke to everyone about the moments before a nervous breakdown. “Like being on the edge of a nervous breakdown” as the stark voice projected in the beginning of the show. Palmqvist incorporated feminism, nature and allure in her S/S15 collection.
Topman Collection S/S15
CARIN WESTER
Judging from the music I think everyone knew where Wester found inspiration for her S/S15 collection. The muffled East Asian song was in perfect symbiosis with the soft but hard holiday garb. The clothes felt relaxed and elegant, mixing some very unexpected elements such as mustard and teal on a champagne silk. The collection felt perfect for a holiday, but also had a structured side to it.
I would like to think that this collection is for the modern but partially referential woman who can take a hit but also sip a glass of Perignon Vintage 91 on a deserted Thai island.
DIANA ORVING
As usual the first few looks from Diana Orving’s collection were dark and mysterious, but as the collection progressed the models suddenly opened up a new dimension. Silver appliques shone under the spotlights and the motif was clear to me. From caterpillar to butterfly, suddenly all mystery around the collection was diminished, giving off a very natural and minimal feel to the collection.
WHYRED
Opening with black, grey, and silvers, I did not expect Whyred to please me . But After a few looks, an array of collages emerged on the catwalk. Like microscopic moon surfaces, a blurry sticky print was pasted on several looks. Bursts of red popped up on a few looks, giving dimension to the usual ultra minimalistic take of mens- and womenswear Whyred presents. I enjoyed this collection but felt there was too much of a similarity between several looks.
ARMY OF ME
Rick Owen-esque streetwear label Army of Me sent minimalistically messy denim and leather down the runway this fashion week. The show was not the most exciting ― I think personally, at least ― but there were a few items I did enjoy. Such as a V neck open back top where there was a bondage style fastening in the center of the back.
I also enjoyed the music ( perhaps an homage to Ryoji Ikeda? ) that was jumpy and static, like electro waves infiltrating our minds. In conclusion the Army of Me collection was organic streetwear that did not interest me but probably interested many others - in a more commercial sense at least.