

REVIEW:
MARC JACOBS S/S15
TEXT : ETHAN POTTER
In the tradition of full disclosure, I must admit I seldom pay attention to the shows at New York Fashion Week. It’s a lot of flashing lights and my eyes simply don't adjust. However, this season presented an undeniably outlier to my general equation: Marc Jacobs.
The collection presents an obviously militaristic aesthetic, colours and cuts of the “standard issue” nature. Muted and washed khakis, navy and grey were prominent. Shoulder appliqués were in full force, and skimming just above, the same regimented black bob haircut, featuring on each model. The hair further set the mood of uniformity, like an all over buzz cut, we saw not the identities of the “New Faces”, but simply Looks 1-33. Those proves to be an essential gear in the machine of Jacob’s message . Set against the regimented imagery that walked the plush purple carpets, there were little bursts of rebellion, like the faces of dissent amongst the dismay of a war torn nation. Oversized jewels, oversized pockets and oversized buttons, the exaggeration providing an element of obscurity to shine through. The small daisy adornment stitched centre-chest on looks 30-32, presenting a small glimmer of happiness amongst the layers of dismay. Even the small details, like the raising of a hemline, twisted this collection. Suddenly we are no longer standing on the front line obeying our barked orders, we are dissenting, unchaining the chokehold of our dog tags.
At face value, Jacobs show can be identified as a commentary on the "current state of dressing", the much muchness that encompasses the sartorial world. How in the trench warfare that is dressing we have hit a stalemate, all the same, no winners. This idea was certainly harrowed in the accompanying soundtrack to the show. Breaking from the norm, Jacobs provided individuals sets of headphones to each of the shows attendants, recorded by stylist Katie Grand’s husband, Bob Mackey. The track played a monotone voice recording, providing commentary on the ever prominent uniformity of individual dressing. However, and most importantly, I think Jacobs cuts a little deeper into the human condition, something beyond just the way we dress. Despite centuries of development in human thought and behaviour, we all seem to inherently have a regimented obligation to an institution in our lives. Whether it is something as primal as the armed forces, or the simple technology in which we interact with daily, we are constantly losing our sense of self to succumb to whole. Jacob's playful distortion of militaristic garments-oversized jewels, shortened hemlines, small daisy appliquésprovides a beacon of hope for our dissent and individuality. Although slight in emphasis, the idea was present and set to grow. Perhaps I've read far too much into this, but I am rarely pricked with such interest in any one show, so the desire to develop further was burning strong. The message Jacobs is sending here is a necessary refreshment in a seemingly bleak world view. Like a small daisy stitched to the chest, the individual can blossom on the harshest of surfaces.